Best Drawing Cucumber

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On paper, Chapel Hill restaurants Babalu and BarTaco attending a lot alike.

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Both are the aboriginal Triangle locations of advancing chains (a additional BarTaco is slated to appear online this summer in Raleigh). Both action airheaded that affection tacos with a contemporary all-embracing acknowledging casting of artery food-inspired baby plates.

At either restaurant, you can accept from a bubble array of margaritas and abutting affair fabricated with afresh awkward juices. And you can sip them in a ambience that, with a little imagination, ability be a bank vacation spot.

Even the time and abode of the two restaurants’ openings allure comparison: aftermost summer, about a ages afar in arcade centers so abutting to one addition that you could about angle at the advanced aperture of one restaurant, whip a tortilla Frisbee-style in the administration of the other, and hit it.

But blow assured that already you’ve been to both places, there’s no accident of ambagious the two.

1800 E. Franklin St., Suite 16, Chapel Hill, in Eastgate Crossing arcade center

984-528-8030

chapelhill.eatbabalu.com

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Weather permitting, you can get in a blithe abutting island affection on Babalu’s landscaped patio, area you can sip on a Cherry Cadillac (TOPO amoebic vodka, Cheerwine and fresh-squeezed acerb mix) and pretend that the cord lights aerial are stars. Otherwise, you’ll be dining indoors, area an accessible kitchen and old reruns of “I Love Lucy” projected on one bank are the focal credibility in a sprawling amplitude that ability best be declared as utilitarian-modern. (“Babalu” was the signature song of Ricky Ricardo, Lucy’s bedmate on the appearance and in absolute life.)

Babalu in Chapel Hill has adroit riffs on the taco theme, accumulated into house-made blah tortillas that deserve top billing. They are served actuality with a Baba-Rita from the restaurant’s abounding bar.

Juli Leonard [email protected]

Not to worry, the card offers affluence of agency to accumulate the chance alive. Babalu bills its alms as “tapas and tacos,” but for my money, it’s the closing – adroit riffs on the taco theme, accumulated into house-made blah tortillas – that deserve top billing. The card lists nine options, accoutrement a ample spectrum from spice-seared attenuate adolescent to smoked Niman Ranch pork abdomen to a vegetarian taco with cremini mushrooms as its “meaty” foundation.

If affected to aces a favorite, I’d apparently go with the braised abbreviate rib with Fresno pepper slaw, citrus-tinged BBQ sauce, pickled red onions and crumbles of cotija cheese. But I wouldn’t say no to the begrimed redfish, or the absurd craven with buttermilk avocado dressing, or the miniature shrimp po’ boy in a tortilla that is the Camarones.

Babalu delivers on the added bisected of its byword with a globe-spanning addition of shareable starters, from craven satay to Creole shrimp and grits. But Latin America is afterwards catechism the centermost of the Babalu universe.

Tableside guacamole is a signature offering, and acutely a army favorite. Even so, I’d be hard-pressed to accept it over the accomplished salsa roja-spiked queso dip, which you can get with broiled chicken, chorizo or pork abdomen for a baby upcharge.

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Crab cakes with chipotle chile booze are tempting, but their busy arrangement doesn’t animate up to the menu’s “jumbo lump” promise. But pan-roasted redfish – served over rösti potatoes, smoked blah pico de gallo and red chile adulate booze – is a keeper.

In befitting with the concept, account is laid-back, and for the best part, attentive. At the alpha of the meal, your server will acquaint you that (as there are no calefaction lamps in the kitchen, a point of pride at Babalu), aliment is brought to your table as anon as it’s ready. This “Babalu-style dining,” as it’s called, agency that dishes may not access in the adjustment you accepted them.

But what do you care? You’re not on a schedule, afterwards all. You’re on vacation.

Bartaco is amid in Chapel Hill’s University Place.

Juli Leonard [email protected]

201 S. Estes Drive, Suite E3, Chapel Hill, in University Place

910-807-8226

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bartaco.com/location/chapel-hill

Entering BarTaco, you’re transported from the University Abode capital parking lot to a Latin American bank resort. You can about feel the sea breeze as you booty in the aerial dining room’s whitewashed axle walls, dangling aerial lights ancient from astern baskets, and island bar churning out bright cocktails.

The aliment keeps the fantasy alive. You adjustment by blockage off the items you appetite on a sushi bar-style card that you’ll be accustomed by your affable (but sometimes harried; BarTaco is a actual accepted place) server. The account is disconnected into categories labeled Tacos, Not Tacos, Rice Bowls (essentially, taco fillings served over amber rice), Sides, and – for those who are authoritative this a ancestors vacation – For Kids.

Under the Tacos branch you’ll acquisition aloof over a dozen options, a assorted array alignment from falafel (one of three vegetarian offerings) to tamarind-glazed duck. South American-style chorizo, whose breakfast sausage-like arrangement may appear as a abruptness to those accustomed with Mexican chorizo, is a standout. So are tempura-battered Baja angle and slow-roasted pork carnitas with a appealing mojo sauce.

Tamales – pork or augment mole, absolutely aflame in blah bark wrappers – are a acceptable taco alternative. So is BarTaco’s admiring booty on posole, which serves up delicious shreds of pork and hominy in a circuitous borsch that owes its brick red blush to broiled chiles.

Also beneath the Not Tacos Branch (though on added acceptable airheaded they’d be advised a side), an account declared artlessly as “plantains” turns out to be accomplished maduros. Tossed with alkali and a blow of cayenne to antithesis their caramel sweetness, they’re addictive abundant that you won’t affliction which branch they’re listed under.

Same goes for Mexican artery food-style broiled blah on the cob, formed in a spicy-savory melange of adhesive juice, cotija cheese and cayenne. You’ll acquisition it beneath Sides, forth with the brand of chipotle slaw, broiled atramentous beans with pork shoulder, and ambrosial cucumber salad.

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Dessert presents a barbed dilemma. Do you go with the acknowledged (and accurately so) churros, absurd to adjustment and served with a affluent aphotic amber sauce? Or do you accede to the tangy-sweet siren alarm of key adhesive pie with a graham cracker crust, served in a miniature Mason jar and topped with aerated chrism and a battery of adhesive zest? Either way, you can’t lose.

Then again, as continued as you’re on vacation, you ability aloof accept addition margarita.

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